A SPA factory
This model kit had lots of fun to tinker around with, and being a Panzer-based being, it had a mindnumbing amount of road wheels. I couldn't blame anyone else for liking German tanks, I just had to find a way to get through the most boring part of the build without feeling the need to cut corners. Luckily I had a set of aftermarket tracks waiting so I could ignore the kit's own tracks.
Lower hull
Simply following orders, I started building the Hummel by cleaning up the Panzerwanne. The side walls had a few excess nubs that had to be sliced off. Next to the idler wheel a shallow < -shaped piece was installed to bump the track pins back in place. I also got to start with some of the most repetitive things, the octet of two-piece return rollers. The rubber-rimmed road wheels I then decided to leave for later, much later, to wait for the time when I couldn't postpone them anymore.
On the rear hull plate I installed a step for the personell, a towing hook setup, the convoy light and two pretty flimsy racks for the spare road wheels. Not too surprisingly the other flimsy bit suffered damage when I was cutting it off from the sprue.
Then I was about to get seriously confused with the bogies but luckily I noticed before applying glue (and then swearing heartily) that both of the sprues, with 4 bogies each, had two for the right and two for the left side of the hull. The L/R bits were only recognizeable by the connector pin sizes. Most likely the biggest issue I could've caused with some rushing would've been a bit of a glue mess, but I avoided that by keeping my weary eyes open for once.
Two exhaust pipes were installed on both sides of the rear hull, with a protective bit added. I started thinking already how to paint these now. Maybe I'd do it like the last time and leave the wheels and tracks all out until the basic painting was handled.
The state of the fighting compartment
My thinking was cut short as I simply continued building the vehicle. The tracks with their accompanying pieces were going to be installed to an otherwise ready Selbstfahrlafette. Now the artillery crew's workspace started finding its shape in calm and piece by piece.
No issues with the armoured bit covering the driver's and radio operator's spaces. More boxes got added onto the battle deck.
The three walls didn't settle in perfectly and without any grumbling, thanks to me installing one earlier piece a fraction of a millimeter off. Not a huge problem, anyway.
A few bits were purposelly left uninstalled. Those shovels living on the outside of the walls would get added painted whenever I was done with them, and the self-defence MG from the inner hanger was something I also wanted to paint separately.
The howitzer and its mechanisms
With that the tank part was just about done, so I could now proceed to build the howitzer itself. It had some actual moving pieces! I really didn't expect them to remain movable throughout the project but I had to give it a shot.
Playing with the elevation of the gun was lots of fun, the front's flimsy bit felt a bit weak. More hardware was going to be glued on them later so maybe they would be made sturdier that way.
Those cylinders worked fantastically when I had forced myself to glue the inner and outer cylinders separately - and to let them cure firts. Their mechanical insert-turn-press connection was convenient.
Gluing the supports for the gun shield was then the first properly annoying step, thanks to the fancy 3d instructions that didn't make it any easier for me to see which way what was pointing at and where it belonged later on. The four supports I glued in were the results of the classic trial-error process.
I dry-fitted the gun onto the hull every so often, mostly because it stayed put nicely and didn't spin around the box when I moved my operation from here to there twice a day.
During the build process the only step that I decided I knew better - or the one I thought I could optimize - was the front armour's gluing order. The instructions said that the gun was to be installed first, and then the front plate needed to be glued in. I wanted to paint the gun and especially its details outside the hull, just like I wanted to paint the insides of the fighting compartment without the gun being on the way. With a bit of testing I decided that I could still install the gun after the fourth wall was solidly in place, so alea jacta est, I proceeded on my chosen path.
At some point in gluing the gun's shield something had gotten stuck and the gun's barrel was locked into a horizontal position and was not budging. Most likely the culprit was the pair of cylinders because nothing else could lock it that strongly. Not that this was an issue, it gave me an excuse to glue the aiming device solidly in place, the screws didn't give the solidity I was hoping for.
Steel texture
Now that I actually remembered, I tried the steel surface texuring a second time, but this time I didn't do the second step of stippling glue-diluted putty. As my first part I chose the gun shield's right half. I painted it with glue (I had just ran out of AK I's extra thin but thankfully Hobby Point sold me some Mr Cement S that smelled really weird). The glue-softened plastic got stabbed with a short-bristled and mistreated old paintbrush. In the end, when the glue had flashed, I sanded off the biggest edges with a sanding sponge (superfine, 800 grit said the package).
One by one I iterated through the list of practically all vertical surfaces that I could poke conveniently. I got just about all of them done in the first evening, then on the next day I thought I could go overboard and apply the method on the sides of the Panzerwanne as well. Had I gotten even more excited, I could've done the inside armour walls of the gun area, but I didn't want to start poking an already assembled area. That would've only led to disappointments.
Pätkä kerrallaan, pientä vaihtelua muuten niin sileisiin ja tasaisiin panssaripintoihin.
At this point I had to loop the tow cable into its hooks on the upper glacis plate, and that was surprisingly more challenging than I expected. I left the gun's travel locks off still, but I assumed I would be installing them before the painting stage. Maybe they'd be easier to set in place before I started installing the tracks.
Now I glued the rear doors in place, as soon as they were treated with the steel texturing on both sides. I half-assembled one of the crew members by gluing the torso onto the legs, and the head with its field cap, but I left the arms off yet. I also decided that I wasn't going to start working on the accessories like shells, cartridges, extra boxes and planks.
In this photo the guy was standing on his sprue bits, so the plastic Übermensch wasn't quite that tall in nature. The gun was also way too far back, lying in the middle of the floor instead of its own attachment point.
Tracks
With the official build pretty much done I did the Panzerwerk tracks at their own pace. They just happened to work in a way that nothing else could be done in parallel, it was just dedicated time that was needed. I used the instruction sheet's 1:1 scale step as a guide to avoid nonsense in measures. Working in my flow mode they took something like two hours per side, I wasn't rushing but I also didn't get bored.
Of course I assembled a length of track armour from the remaining track links and cat whiskers. If there weren't enough of them in this box, I had some remaining from the earlier two sets.
Gun's travel lock
This felt like a good moment to snap the travel lock's two booms in place so everything except the wheels was ready for painting. All the separate bits could be easily primed.
Now there were eleven building sessions done. In addition to the wheelsets we were missing the MG, engineering tools, the jack, and the crew with their accessories. Not much.
























































