Mastodon

14.10.26

Orktober: team colours

WAAAGH! Orktober!

A gang of orcs on a sportsball field was probably a reference to hooligans on a football lawn. I really had no clue about this game but some colleagues told me that Blood Bowl was one of the most liked games of the Nottinghamian miniature company.

Green skins for greenskins

My first idea was to shade the three size classes of the orcs so that the two gretchins were the brightest green, the majority in a medium tone, and the two massive trolls had the darkest green skins. The basis for this was that the biggest minis had more details on the models and a bright skin colour would just take the attention away, on the tiny ones it might work the opposite way.

4BO Trolls

I was really amused by my own idea of this two clowns would be like walking tanks in a sportsball game, so using the Soviet protective green (VMA 71017 Russian Green 4BO) was a twistedly fitting shade for them. As the photos revealed I managed to forget to paint the first one's toes to begin with. I had time to fix this and all other misses.



Plain green orcs

This enormous pile of orcs was processed over a few evenings. I brushed some light reen (VMA 71022 Light Green RLM82) on the heads, arms, chests, whatever was uncovered.


Light green gretchins

Those tiny fools I painted with gently diluted light green (VMC). There wasn't much to paint on them, so at this point I felt my choice of skin tones worked.


Fuzzballs

Because I had no idea what would be the best thing to do next, I started with hair. I gave the trolls' heads, arms, chests and the crap flowing out of the other one's pants a layer of reddish brown (AK11108 Hull Red). Over that I wet blended some slightly lighter brown (AK11106 Mahogany).


That looked like a neat scheme, so I painted the four wolf pelts the same way. What did you mean wolves were more grey than brown? Well, these ones were not!

Wood pieces

There were surprisingly many wooden bits spread around the miniatures, mostly on the shoulder plates and the various barrels, but also on the vambraces and other random shielding parts. I based them all with Wood Base (AK11351) and painted some thin lines with Light Wood (AK11115). This photo didn't include the beersquigs and their barrels.

Metallic metallics

On these tokens I wanted to get the metals to stand out properly so I used a metallic paint instead of my more typical greyscale recipe. Gunmetal (VMA 71072) was a good base, so that's what I used:

Those Valkyrie orcs got some copper (VMA 71068 Copper) decorations on their shoulder pads' engraved runes. In addition to the runes I felt tha the helmet wings had to have a more golden theme, a bit like what Asterix had.

Hell bent, hell bent for leather

My AK wood set had a convenient and usefully named leather colour (AK Leather Brown) so I used that on all the boots, belts, straps, back-protecting discs and whatnot. Trying to follow in the footsteps of actual painters I highlighted their edges with a lighter brown (AK).


After some slowly progressing painting sessions the orc group started looking quite a lot like progress.

Gang division

I had to split these folks into two sportsballs groups but I had not been struck by inspiration that told me how it was to happen. As evident, I was definitely not a sports observer so there was no help from the meatspace here. I just started a red versus blue, because both those were going to stand out against the greenness of the skins.

At this point I ordered some bases from the local GW store in the centre of Helsinki on an afternoon after work. There were going to be a few discs for the tiniest units, a pile for the majority and a few larger ones for the big ones + one of the normies.

Blue orc group

This is what I ended up setting for one of the gangs:

I chose a light grey colour for the He-Man -style furry pants, so I started them with Cold Grey. I wanted them to stand out from the brown fur of the trolls and the future-black beards of the orcings.

The troll of the blue unit got black lenses on his sunglasses and I had this silly idea of turning his pants into jeans. That didn't work out perfectly, and the final shade wasn't that much different from his team scarf even though I felt I had been poking around quite a lot. This dude also had a name in the kickstarter. I also got carried away painting some small details like the teeth and nails. For these I used a pretty generic medium brown - lighter brown - bone recipe.

His coat was clearly a leather coat and I based that in black grey, and then drybrushed with Cold Grey. Later I highlighted the upper sides of the folds with thinned down Cold Grey because I felt the drybrushing alone was a bit too weak to highlight the large shapes well enough.

Those battle dresses of the Valkyrie orcs I did not even think of painting blue, I wanted them to be white. At least they had those lines in the hems that I could paint blue for the team colour, just the way I had painted the bowties in their braids. My approach with the dress was a Cold Grey overbrushing, then thinned down Stonewall Grey, a smaller layer of thinned down Greyish White over, and an ultimate drybrushing with white. While fooling around with the fabrics I felt that they should also wear white gloves instead of having them have bare hands. I also gave them steel-capped shoes because why not?


I got a suggestion to make the Valkürenorcs blondes like Wagner opera singers, so that's what I went for. For the hair I used one of the warm wood colours in the teeth but it was funny how the brain recognized the things correctly as hair despite the colour repetition. I based the flying braids with Wood Base and hightlighted them with that later after I had washed them. When I was poking around I added some more copper onto the shoulder swirls, boob armour, and the bracelets. That was good.

My set had four of these angry meatballs. Later I noticed in the Kickstarter page that two of them (the barreled ones) were for the game, and the others were some sort of team markers. No idea how I was supposed to realize that. Anyway, I painted them all the same way. Based with the Hull Red I then highlighted them with the RLM23 red. On their backs I wet blended some purple-violet. Now they reminded me quite strongly of Cacodemons, which may have subconciously guided my colour choices. Green eyes to top them up, some very uncared teeth, and bright red tongues.

 

At this point my minis were so far done that I could start washing them with Citadel's stuff (Seraphim sepia for the woods and drinking horns, some Agrax Earthshade on choice planks, and metallics mostly Nuln Oiled).

Like everything else in this project I painted things at random and in very inconsistent sets. When I had come up with the chessboard decoration for the red team I had to do something for this blue team. I wanted the decos to be different so checkers were out of the question. Instead I painted some filled sawtooth pattern along the decorable surfaces, and later on I heard their name: dags. They looked more like sawteeth to me but I guessed they could also be dagger tips as well. All the same, I painted a number of the and was surprisingly content with the result.

During my various painting sessions I had been tweaking and even highlighting the skins quite a bit but something felt off. I orcified them by using my at least 28-year-old Citadel Green Wash on all the skin parts. That took some highlights down but the green was more vibrant and all three main groups were still somewhat distinct in their shades.

There were loads of steps I didn't photograph so the progress behind the scenes was faster than what my text output led anyone to believe. Thanks to the silly amount of pieces the painting was very splintered and spread around the calendar, as I didn't even get one single stage done in one go most of the time. In addition I forgot some little details from day (evening) to day and noticed the fixables when already packing my setup. There were quite a few of the drinking horns, only that one guy had something in his helmet and the other one spilling out. Some kind of a beer brown would've simply been lost in the brown so I decided that these folks were very Capellan-spirited and this one was drinking plum wine. The colour was pretty nice.

 

Now they started being in a pretty decent state, except for the bases. I had already stepped into the deep trap of fine-tuning so maybe it was a good idea to step away for a moment and then poke at the last missing details.

Red group

I basecoated all the red-to-be things with AK's Hull Red because that was a good foundation for a couple of brighter red highlights. Things like the troll's loincloth and later the foot rags, the pants and some shirts of the orcs, the apothorcary got a red outfit later on when I had first marked the white apron out of the way. The modern-day mint-green protective gear wouldn't have stood out nicely enough from his skin.


These folks also got their furry warmers painted from Cold Grey to an off-white. When I was done with that and the bright red fabrics, I realized I had turned into USian Santa Cocacolaus copies. That inspired me with a team name: Santer'z lil helpaz. Apparently the orcsies needed to speak that way, for max street cred.

Lacking a shirt, the troll got a red skull-band on his bear and some more on his back hair. They didn't stand out that much from his red-brown hair, but I had no one but myself to blame for the low contrast. I also decided that this one was going to wear black leather pants just like his brother had a fine leather jacket. Both articles of clothing were the same: black grey with cold grey highlights. Perhaps I ought to use a satin varnish on the pants to make them stand out even more sillily. Another thing I saw missing were his nasty toenails, thanks camera!

 

Now the Apoth-orc-ary got the red outfit under his apron. At this point I had also given him, too, white gloves. That forehead lamp with its band was one of the things I simply kept forgetting for some reason. What I had not forgotten were the separate steel soles and kicking dags for his shoes. It would've been even more fun if he wore socks and sandals like a true barbarian.

 

After several fine-tuning and re-poking sessions later the reds were also in a pretty decent state of life. Those wolf pelts I had poked a bunch of times, adding some diluted black both in the upper parts of the legs, eye area and to the snouts. On top of that I had drybrushed grey in places to make them look a bit less mistailed foxes. Of course I could - and maybe should - have been different and made them fox pelts to begin with!



After applying different Citadel washes (sepia, brown, black) I was again closer to the end. Something had been ticking in the back of my skull, as these folks could've been so much orkier than what they were now, I just didn't know what this missing thing was. Then it struck me: the tiny decorations here and there. I cautiously but bravely added a silly amount of tiny white squarelike blobs to make a chessboard patterns on their shoulder guards and whatnots. I was mimicing my ancient memories from the nineties artwork (both FaBa and 40k) where the orcs always had insane amounts of chessboards. During the very first steps I was certain I was ruining all, but the result was fun. Orky.

 

I took a separate three-person closeup shot. This had worked better than I expected.


7.10.26

Project X/26

WAAAAAAAAGH! Orktober!

Long story short: I participated in a Kickstarter at some point last year as a fediverse-friend from some corner of Scotland had sculpted some Viking-themed Orcs for GW's Blood Bowl. I thought they were neat, and the idea amused me enough to participate for two team's worth. Not that I had ever seen the game anywhere or intended to play it. I simply wanted to paint these.

At some point in the Spring 2026 the local postal services did a part of the job they were hired to do and made me fetch a package from some dropoff site. There were two troll-like beings; a silly pile of various orcs, two of which were Valkyries, and a bonus doctor Orc with a cleaver; two gretchins (that's what they were called in Space Crusade IIRC); and some meatball-shaped monsters. Those last were Squigs, according to the internyet.

While taking the photos and turning the pieces in my hands I was thinking how should I divide them into their respective teams. Of course the Kickstarter info page already had them listed in either Orc Norse or Norse Orc teams, but I didn't care as in my mind they could be wherever they damn pleased.

To get things started I primed them all black and left the bases to wait a much later and better moment.



30.9.26

Night Swallow's night fighting double cockpit

A two-person tub

My best understanding about any of the WWII plane cockpits came from flight simulators, the one with the most hours was a slightly ageing European Air War, while IL-2 Sturmovik was a bit fresher, but I hadn't touched that one in something like 15+ years now. Luckily the wonderful world of the interwebs contained reference images such as this one here:

SRC: https://airandspace.si.edu/multimedia-gallery/image/web10866-2008hjpg

There was no way I'd get that hysterically close even if I did my bestestest. This photo helped me to figure out what all that crap in the cockpit was, and that was valuable in deciphering the instructions.

The pilot's workstation

In the two-person cockpit the frontmost was the pilot's place and that was where the adventure started.

Assembling the front seat

Having very little clue of anything I didn't try to optimize prematurely, and instead I followed the instructions as obediently as one could. An airplane model started from the cockpit, that this time wasn't a simple tub with a couple of tiny flakes glued into it, but it was a couple of separate plates. These first pieces became the arm consoles of the pilot and the sides between which the pilot sat. Well, I knew that the throttle controls lived on the left side, and if I remembered correctly the landing gear toggle was somewhere front left. This construction was glued into a wall, and I assumed the bit behind the pilot's butt was a battery. At least it looked like a battery to me.

The floor piece got a bar for the rudder, and the pilot's joystick. This also got glued into the back wall with a pretty tiny grabbing surface but I trusted it would become sturdier as the build progressed.

The foot pedals sat nicely on their cradle, and they looked pretty nice to my amateur eyes.


This pedal setup also fell in place pretty conveniently, so I could proceed to install the instrument panel parts in place. Now I was in a place where I had to seriously consider picking up the paints if I wanted to fit inside the model with my paintbrush. Maybe I had already passed that point from a airplane-dedicated hobbyis't viewpoint but I didn't know how to be the most efficient here.

I still had no dedicated weights to add into the nose, I remembered seeing that while skimming through the instructinos. I felt mad enough to consider pulling some cables or wires from the back of the IP to also add some little extra weight. The risk was that I'd stupidly do something I felt like instead of doing it correctly. Perhaps that was a silly detail to be left for the serious and dedicated ones.



While playing with these loose bits I was concerned with the positioning and alignment: if something was a degree off, the whole shebang would be wrong when sealing this setup into the plane's hull. After taking this last photo I glued the assembled subassembly into its front wall. If my memory served, that was the wall between a fuel tank and the guns.

Weirdly early painting

Now I was in a stage where I had to start painting if I wanted to reach almost everything. Or like I thought before, I may have already gone past that moment, simply being unused to planes. I got my paintbrush and coated most of what I had built in a dark grey paint (VMA 71055 Black Grey RLM66). Instead of using the metallic paint that the instructions were pushing I drybrushed this with Cold Grey (VGA 72750 Cold Grey). On the surfaces I followed the guidance and shades as I could, only Anthrazite was something I didn't own so the front right panel was a bit different.

The most colour variety came for the joystick's base and the throttle levers that got a Wood brown on them, and the valve manifold levers next to the throttles got painted black. At this point I noticed I didn't actually have the correct green so I didn't finish the front wall or the joystick's stick part.

On the instrument panel I based the dials black. I thought I got them nicely done in one go but the photos revealed how wrong I was again: half-coated at best. Then I touched up a couple of toggles with red (VMA 71003 Red RLM23) but I didn't pull button or switch colours out of my hat to force variety.


 

After a couple of days in between and popping by a paintshop I continued on the plane. Some of the RLM66 bits got mostly prepainted into the sprues so I wouldn't be in weird problems in a difficult moment while building the cockpit. I didn't expect to have pinpointed all the difficulties in advance so it was more than likely that I'd be still touching up for days to come.

While I was fixing my doings, I filled up the panel faces in black (VMA 71057 Black) and then smudged some dial-like stuff on them. I really didn't dare to try to poke any white, yellow, and red sectors onto the three rows of engine dials on the right, I'd only made a mess if I tried to. Of course I didn't try to fill them all semicorrectly, I wasn't even sure if these could be seen in the first place. After taking these photos and letting the paint dry, I coated the dials with Vallejo's Gloss Varnish.

Onto the engine's three-row dialset I just painted the background in cold grey and then off-white (VMA 71119 White Grey) switches. I didn't try to do anything cooler than that, I imagined one could barely see these later on. After taking the photos and allowing the paint to dry I coated all the dial faces with Vallejo's Gloss Varnish (70510). 


Radar operator's workstation

Now that I had spent a couple of days on the pilot's stuff and partially painted some upcoming things, I finally could glue some radar dude's things together. When I was prepainting I concentrated on things I now knew to be difficult to paint later. While painting I left the attachment points as clear as possible, when I recognized them, to avoid making a mess with the glue. This wasn't perfect, of course. Compared to the pilot's space the radar operator's side was much flimsier and only connected to the whole from a tiny stud hooked into the pilot's back plate.

 

Seats with belts

To support the gluings I used Vallejo's liquid putty. While that stuff was curing I finished up the seats that also ended up getting the decal seatbelts on them. They were neat-looking, but just as annoying as decals usually have been. Both had the same problems, maybe I could use a drop of paint to get the left shoulder belt's attachment loops stuck in place?


Inner armoured tub

Getting the tub's halves together was more bothersome than I hoped for. As I guess I should've expected, I hadn't been as precise as German engineers when building the cockpit so I had to sand and file a bit to get the crap squeezed in place. To support my inner peace I used more liquid putty to seal the setup, and left the setup to cure. I could sand them down the next evening before jumping a couple of sections noseward .


It was funny how quickly the cockpit turned much more claustrophobic. Not much of the tub's inner walls were visible but I had painted and drybrushed them so they would be properly done. There was a red handle on the righthand side of the pilot's side wall. Again, if my memory served, it was for releasing the drop tanks or bombs. That most likely wasn't something one could see from a closed cockpit, but it was there, a RLM23 red handle in a sea of RLM66 darkness.


As planned I sanded the largest clumps of dry putty off the next evening and painted the outsides metallic (Vallejo Metal Color Airbrush Colors 77702 Duraluminium), and the upper edges in RLM66.

23.9.26

Project IX/26

Revell's larger scale night Swallow

As you could tell, the madness had struck me. I had contacted Tieto-Nikkari last year and asked if they had a 1:32 scale German planes to try out. My wishlist was pretty predictable, I guessed: Bf-109; Me-262; He-162 and I didn't mind the variant or model manufacturers. They had a Swallow in the shelf so I didn't need to toss a coin. This B-1/U-1 variant was a two-crew night fighter with a Neptun radar

Some ages ago I have made three of these in 1:72. One of them was the basic version (A-1a), one a camera plane (A-1a/U3), and one was the Storm Bird (A2-a) aka the fighter bomber variant. It was going to be interesting to see how over two decades showed in the end.


 

Pieces in bags

There was a silly amount of pieces and I left them waiting for a better moment to look at more closely. At a very quick glance this kit had at least four times the parts compared to the smaller planes.


 

Decals

No, they still did not call my attention. I also hadn't made myself order stencils for German numbers, so I wasn't sure if I had many options.


A peek at the instructions

First thought was that I could build it with its paws on the ground and the hatches opened. That I appreciated, even though I hadn't given a thought on how I'd want to build this plane. A standing one was nicer to photograph and I really enjoyed building and painting all the soon-to-be-hidden details. What annoyed me already was the little note telling me I had to find out 15 grams worth of tiny weights to hide inside the nose.