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24.7.24

Panzer IV lower hull

Model four

My calendar was in such a state that had I shared this project into a post per modeling session like I've done a few times, the content might be split into single sentences at worst. Instead this project is going to be written about in some sort of larger entities, made up on the go.

Following the instructions

Even though this was my fourth Panzer IV frame (an unpainted Hummel, Sturmpanzer IV, Jagdpanzer IV), I was going to be nice and follow the instructions as I didn't really know where to take shortcuts and which made more sense in which stage. That was assuming there were such things where I would strongly deviate from the modelmaker's suggested approach.

Photoetch bits first

The first thing to notice was that the Panzerwanne, straight out of the box, was in a state that in earlier models had taken a good bunch of steps to get to. Now I got to start from these PE hatches to the engine's vents. Somehow the instructions were a bit strange to me here and I could've easily done them a bit wrong. The superglue I had at this point was stupid to use (what it had was not a fine nozzle) so I had to twist some wire to make an applicator that allowed me to use tiny dots of superglue instead of massive globs on, over and around the pieces.


At the same time I also assembled some roadwheels, and two of the jerry cans. Of course I hadn't seen a live jerry can in 23 years so I didn't remember how the lids were to be.


Hatches, tools and return rollers

The heavier work on the lower hull started showing when the front edges of the combat department got hatches, the jack block, a couple of hooks and I wasn't entirely sure what the half-cylinder was for but I guessed it was related to airflow based on the position. Of the barrel cleaner options I just randomly chose one and glued it on.


 

Now the mechanism started turning out: first I installed the things by the drive sprockets and the bogies' stoppers (the little disks along the bottom edge) and built the return rollers that even had maker markings on the rubber parts.




After this I built the bogies with their leaf springs, four per side. Something struck me funny about these and their instructions, but that didn't stick to my memory as I built everything via dry-fitting anyway..



During that same evening I had the time to assemble the roadwheels that each indeed had a more or less readable Continental text, unlike in my earlier builds. I remembered reading ages ago of a higher-pricepoint model that had an extra line on the embossed letters to avoid being sued.


From the wheelsets I moved forward to the rear of the tank and its rear armour plate, where the first piece was the exhaust pipe / barrel and the track tension adjusters. In these first photos the armour plate was upside down.


While attaching it I managed to lose the other L-shaped bit from the middle of the plate. No idea when or when this happened.


Now I encountered the first larger change to be done based on which variant I had chosen. Of course I hadn't thought of it that much so my randomizer song ended on F2 with its ball-shaped muzzle brake. To make that version, I had to violently undo some extra bolt-on features.



Fenders and more tools

Now the instructions told me to start installing various and numerous tools onto the fenders and this made me believe that the lower hull was more or less done. While working on the tools I frog-jumped back and forth to give the freshly glued bits a bit of time to cure while I started on others, the instructions were pretty weird here. What was optional and which were optionals together and which didn't align with each other? It was clear that not everything could go on as instructed.


Because the instructions were odd, I just chose what I fel tlike and then added the front and rear flaps. With those cured I glued the fenders onto the hull. These bits had a pretty neat anti-slipping texture and even the flipsides had textures, even if they were not going to be seen in this build.


My model four felt like it was progressing with leaps and bounds now, but much of that came from the incredibly far-prepared Panzerwanne that I started with. All of this so far had taken a handful of real world hours, much of that time went into cleaning up the pieces.

Early thoughts about the assembly

First of all I had to praise the details here. The bits have been fantastic.

The only complain-like thing I had about the model itself so far was the amount of cleanup required, below's a photo of the deck piece with pretty hefty channel residue. They weren't bothersome where they were located in this case, the worst ones were inside the track tension adjusters where nothing would've fit if these chunks remained. Each of these has gone away without swearing and they've only consumed some time, not nerves.

After the cleanup the pieces have fit together very nicely and there haven't been any problems. All the bits have also found their places well and without guessing or much fiddling. Like I said, great stuff so far.

17.7.24

Project IV/24

Border model Panzer IV F2 || G

During the skiing vacation week (mid-February) I visited Tieto-Nikkari, a model shop in Helsinki, after my workday. After having a good nice chat with the owners I walked home with a Panzer IV box from Border model,  a new-to-me manufacturer. I had never heard of this Chinese company before but I wasn't one to keep track of that space.

By accident the Panzer IV ended up being the fourth project of the year. I never planned these in advance, I just started on what felt the most interesting or pressing at the moment.

Pieces

A good amount of sprues were hidden in the box, the only thing I could say out right was that the Panzerwanne was unusually tall and curiously the turret's main part was built out of a number of bits, and that the tracks were a link & length setup.

The tracks made me think if I should order some 3d-printed articulated tracks to try that stuff out. Of course I could get some metallic ones, which was a thing I had long wanted to retry. But but but.

In addition to the decals and a couple of PE details the kit also included a metallic tow cable and a fancy barrel for the KwK. The metal barrel was something I truly didn't expect to find in a 40€ kit.


Instructions

Like always I just took a cursory glance at the instructions this time. They seemed clear and the differences between versions looked neatly marked. Of course this was based on a bit of skimming, I may end up complaining later on when I actually follow them step by step.


For the paint schemes there were a nice handful of suggestions, even if I have never really tried to replicate any of them myself. My models have always been generic units, instead of historically accurate and documented individuals.



Right now I hadn't got a clue which variant I'd go for. The decision could be done based on a tiny detail like the shape of the muzzle brake (the G looked normal but the F2's ball-shaped muzzle brake was so odd that it'd stand out for years).

10.7.24

Finished: Project III/24

Mongrel, later Grendel A

This 45 ton Medium OmniMech originated from the Clan Diamond Shark, then later with trade and Trials spread effectively to the other Clans as well under its new name. This individual represented the alternative configuration A where armoured doors on the shoulders hid LRM-15 launchers, both with two tons of missiles, and a Medium Pulse Laser and an Extended Range Small Laser in the Right Arm. The Left Arm was just an arm with the hand, good enough to punch others or for picking up tree trunks as clubs. For example.

Photos

A few photos of the completed mini:





As I showed a couple of quick comparison photos of this Grendel with the other two Points in its Star, I took a couple of supposedly better photos:


To wrap the photos up, my two Mongrel/Grendel variants Prime and A side by side for comparison:



Phew, the amount of energy weapon lenses I now had to repaint to achieve some sort of a unified approach to life.

Time usage

This mini didn't take more than a couple of silly hours. About twenty minutes to remove the Prime variant's weapons and some sort of cleanup. When adding on the new weapons, most of the time went in making the armour plates for the LRM launchers small enough. The conversion took something like half an hour all in all.

Painting was pretty quick, the black primer was on in minutes, just like the overbrushed cold grey and the lighter grey shape-breakers. Most time got spent on the various markings because I was so awfully bad at it. With the jewelings, oil washings and cleanups this took maybe three quarters of an hour.

My base was done in five minutes so that was almost a rounding error. Then whatever doublecheckings and such took a bit more, but the total didn't exceed two hours. Of course all the pondering, checking, rummaging in the bits box and all the not-visible tasks took their own time but not sillily much. I was going to claim this was all done in ~3h.

3.7.24

Jewelization, oilification and basing

Additional effects

In one quickish painting session I did all the three jewel effects out of the way. This time I managed to get it done in three substeps.

Cockpit

A yellow cockpit was what I used the last time to stand out from blue/grey, so I painted the viewports with yellow ochre (VMA 71033), then mixed in a bit of white (VMA 71270 RAL9001(White)) for the bottom-right blob and then I added each of the 5 panels a pixel of almost clear white.


Energy weapons

My Medium Pulse Laser got a green lens effect on a black base. First I painted most of the lens surface green (VGA 72732 Escorpena Green) and mixed a slightly lighter tone for the bottom right sector and for an animelike reflection a dot of white into the top left sector.



The underslung ER Small Laser was done the same way, black base covered in red (VGA 72710 Bloody Red), a lighter splotch and a final reflection dot to the opposite side.


All these three stages needed a bit of gloss varnish later on to be declared done.

Pin wash

All of the shadows and panel lines got a very enthusastic sepia oil wash. From these photos I noticed a couple of places that got a bit too much shadowiness in them, things I didn't catch as easily with my own eyes. One good example was the Right Arm pod between the leading edge and the caution stripe. I just couldn't be happier with nature's own undo function.







Recipe from 2011

I checked what I had done for the 25th Anniversary Box's OmniMechs and their home-made hex bases. My recipe had been simple: a layer of glue, Woodland Scenics' Ballast and a scattering of foliage.


After the glue had dried I could brush off the excess pebbles. For a quick comparison I took Summoner and Hellbringer for a group photo:

 

Mongrelgrendel was only missing the other five edges of the hex base and the aforementioned excess oil wash cleanup. In addition to the bigger shadow, the LRM doors also had some stronger marks than what I wanted in the end. Just a few minutes of work, next week I'd be sharing the final photos already.

Stop the press!

One thing that had started bugging me for no obvious reason were the Jump Jets. Maybe I had gone insane and I decided to paint bluish white fusion glow effects in them after all. Jump Jets or cockpit-melters, whichever suited you and your enemies best.




To get this done I used electric blue (VGC 72023 Electric Blue) and white (VGA 71270 RAL9001 White), again in a couple of layers and shades. Something yellower/redder would've stood out better from the grey-blue overall paint scheme, but that was hindsight for you again. Painting this was pretty challenging, the nozzles were absolutely tiny and prone to spillage even with the tight-pointed 5 | 0 brush.